Garden of 3D Earthly Delights

by Sally Steele

FashionLab 3D visualization, Dassault Systemes,


Somewhere along my way in the past year, I found my way to the Dassault Systèmes website. Now I can’t stop visiting. I think I am addicted. PLM, yes PLM, Product Lifecycle Management, Dassault applies this out on the bleeding edge to everything from Aerospace to fashion design, and if you haven’t heard about their work to date, believe me…you will soon. I have a very high cool threshold. On the bus each day, I scour my sources for elegant antiquities, and forward fashion tidbits. For years, I have been mesmerized by costume design a la Tim Burton, prior Boulevardiers post 24 & Counting on skeletal fashion. I was intrigued by the photos above. And so it began.

From the technical perspective, if you care, get used to the nomenclature of future fashion design: Synchronization of pattern editing; 3d draping; support for tuck, shirring, pleat, gather, ironed line making;  digitizing & parametrized physical characterization of cloth; realtime rendering; bump mapping; soft shadows; global illumination.


Julien Fournie,


Current 2D fashion design. Custom design. Beyond haute couture. 3D fashion design. 21st century here we go. If I haven’t lost you yet, read on…

From Develop 3: The fashion industry is devoutly 2D – especially the haute couture of the most desirable labels, being more art than garment – so steps into designing through 3D tools has been a slow one. Last December Dassault Systèmes launched its Fashion Lab, and the engineering software company had previously been working tirelessly with mass consumer brands, such as Under Armor, in introducing 3D into apparel design. From what we can tell from the limited information that has accompanied its UK launch by resellers bluegfx, it is a straightforward games character dresser that can be used with most professional rendering programmes to give incredibly lifelike and detailed movement. It seems similar to a few other niche products, however, from its list of ongoing developments, there is nothing to stop it from being a tool to quickly take 2D designs quickly into a realistically assessable 3D model.

This year sees a more unlikely source of 3D design influence coming from the games industry, with Marvellous Designer 2.

From Quintessential Style on Julien Fournié — Fashion, Future, Fournié: Paris Couture Spring 2012:

Fashion is ever-changing, and haute couture is “the best laboratory [to experiment in] for fashion design”. Parisian designer, Julien Fournié, chose to enter the world of custom fitted garments not only because of the tradition of couture lying in Paris’ history, but also because of its role in the changes of fashion and his strong belief in its future. On January 24, 2012, Fournié presented his Spring-Summer 2012 couture collection, Première Extase, at the Showcase as a membre invité by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

This young designer is fashion-forward, maybe even ahead of our time. While working on his collection, he collaborated with FashionLab, created by Dassault Systèmes, a technology incubator which enables the collection design process to transform its 2D aspects into 3D, allowing the exploration of line within the designs. “Thanks to an original online digital library, [designers can] investigate materials to visualize, study, improve a virtual prototype before they make the real-life… piece, accelerating and enhancing thus [the] creative process before they get to work on the real-life mannequin”. With such advances in the design process, “codes of haute couture are being redefined for generations to come.” Considering the ‘trickle down theory’ of fashion, eventually standardized sizing may not be necessary, made-to-measure garments could be more readily available at lower costs.


Julien Fournie,


His collaboration with FashionLab is a reflection of his belief in the future of fashion and how “this field of excellence will develop” especially if it continues to include future technological improvements. Fournié and FashionLab worked on reproducing fabrics’ would-be reactions, using digital tools. A few kinks need to be worked out though in regards to the custom fit of the garments, which became apparent with the tugging of several hemlines.

All in all, the end result of this technological partnership birthed a line of youthful, vibrant, tropical looks from the ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’ 2.0. To the soundtrack of a thunderstorm, Fournié’s ethereal beings guided us through a rainforest. Some dresses resembled hibiscus flowers with pleated, undulating yellow and pink floral structures blooming from the shoulder and wrapping around the body. Others sprouted plastic fringe that reinforced the rainstorm soundtrack with every swish of the hip.




From the 3ds site: Dassault Systèmes, the 3D Experience Company, provides business and people with virtual universes to imagine sustainable innovations. Realistic experiences allow users to anticipate product behavior and impact on the environment, thus creating the conditions of sustainable innovation.

Partners in creation. Bringing the 3D virtual realm to the fashion industry is the goal of Dassault Systèmes’ 3DS FashionLab. The FashionLab is a technological incubator of ideas born and nurtured through a partnership between Dassault Systèmes and some of fashion industry’s most creative talents. The objective is two-fold: provide partners with the tools and services that will help bring their ideas to life using 3D virtual technology, and in exchange diversify Dassault Systèmes’ offering to satisfy the specific needs of fashion professionals.


FashionLab design,


Dassault Systèmes officially launched its FashionLab at the Paris Spring-Summer 2011 Fashion Week during the show of Julien Fournié, one of the industry’s most promising designers. Fond of new technologies, Fournié belongs to a new generation of designers that believes 3D virtual technology can propel haute couture to new heights. He agreed to be a design industry ambassador to the 3ds FashionLab, exchanging ideas with Dassault Systèmes that will forge the company’s future solutions dedicated to high-end fashion. “The FashionLab has much to gain thanks to Julien Fournié’s collaboration,”said Monica Menghini, Global VP, Consumer Goods, CPG & Retail at Dassault Systèmes. “His input will help fulfill the Lab’s mission — to develop 3D virtual modeling and collaborative tools that respond to the needs of the fashion industry.” And because this is a diverse industry, Dassault Systèmes continues to welcome other actors to its Fashion Lab; it recently formed partnerships with designers in ready-to-wear apparel and luxury watch-making.

“We know that designers are betting big on 3D. As 3D print services, movies, video and runway shows become common place, it’s evident that 3D is going to be an essential marketing tool in the years to come.”


FashionLab Launch,


At the launch, FashionLab brought together a small group of industry professionals, socialites and journalists at the Jay AHR showroom where Jonathan Riss also showcased his stunning collection of embroidered and ready-to-wear pieces.

Jonathan Riss, one of three European early ambassadors of FashionLab, introduced the concept with Julien Fournié and François Quentin. Dassault Systèmes, a company with global presence specializes in 3D and Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solutions, developed FashionLab as a technology incubator dedicated to fashion designers and stylists to explore and test new 3D concepts.


2012 Collection,


More from Dassault Systems: FashionLab’s mission is to develop 3D virtual modeling and collaborative tools that enable the industry to master the end-to-end creative process, from styling to final buyer. The site’s three main areas of focus for FashionLab are 3D design and visualization, trends gathering and store management.

With FashionLab, designers will go beyond the limits of their imagination, building tomorrow’s fashion industry using the latest leading software technologies. Digital tools and customization are transforming fashion industry at various stages of design and production. FashionLab is taking lead in this emergent marketplace and positioning itself to compete in Europe and North America, eventually expanding to Asia. Currently, FashionLab is a strictly a B2B product, but company doesn’t exclude a possibility of having B2C offering at a later time.

FashionLab is a platform that integrates design, simulation and collaboration tools required to create an entire collection. The ambassadors of FashionLab believe that 3D can take fashion to new heights–Julien Fournié for haute couture; Jonathan Riss for haute joallerie, embroideries and ready-to-wear; and François Quentin for haute watchmaking.


FashionLab Launch


FashionLab will enhance the competitive advantage of its players and forge the future of the luxury goods market. Designers will have at their disposal every Dassault Systèmes brand to create a collection. FashionLab will help them imagine the world of tomorrow better and faster, bringing them closer to their clients. They will also be able to share knowledge through a social network in private, secure work sessions.


Jonathan Riss


“The luxury fashion industry can benefit from this natural evolution of the creative process, where ideas can be captured and immediately made ‘real’ through the power of modeling and simulation.” — Jonathan Riss, Jay AHR


Riss spoke eagerly of possibilities arising from 3D imaging and other digital tools. He drew parallels between futuristic societies portrayed in sci-fi films and technologies available today for accelerating creative processes for fashion designers. In that sense FashionLab is an exciting platform that has been introduced at just the right time.


Riss design for FashionLab,









Mannequin Making,











A collection that was inspired by the 3D plastic molding process was designed by Jungeun Lee, from South Korea. She was a Royal College of Arts Student finishing her MA degree when she rethought about the fundamental process of producing a garment. Inspired by plastic molding process she wanted to apply this technique into creating 3-dimensional garments. Experimenting and researching unconventional methods she has created a fashion collection made from covering synthetic strand around a wooden form.


Completed Mannequin,





Nuue, the collection’s name, means cocoon in Korean. After being coiled, the fiber undergoes through a heating process with pressure and is molded into a 3-dimensional garment completed with only unitary fibre and heat. The results are incredible aerial flexible and sculptural garments. Originally called Wrapped Garment project, the collection name became “Nuue” after a word that means cocoon in Korean. A groundbreaking sustainable project. The conceptual products that have been created through this innovative technique display the sustainability potential of this idea. This process doesn’t require fabric and can use recycled synthetic fiber. Therefore, all the traditional garment production steps such as making/cutting pattern, and sawing are pointless. Best of all, there is no leftover or wastage of material in the building process. Jungeun Lee now works on solo project or with accomplice Shota Aoyagi on various projects in their design studio, Koya. She is currently working on the next collection of Nuue. Synthetic fibre is wrapping around a wooden form such as a mannequin or a board. Through a heating process, the fibre transforms itself into a 3-dimensional molded garment.


Jungeun Lee design,




Another interesting project inspired by the 3D research was the Valentino Garavani’s Virtual Museum. Said to be the first digital exhibition developed by a fashion designer, the virtual museum was introduced on December 6th at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The two-year project collects together 5,000 images of dresses and nearly 180 fashion show videos in a virtual first person perspective environment that would take over 10,000 square meters if it were a real world environment.


Valentino Garavani’s Virtual Museum,


Dassault Systèmes (DS)’ Product Life Cycle Management (PLM) solutions leverage the strengths of our brands (CATIA for defining the virtual product, SIMULIA for realistic simulation, DELMIA for digital manufacturing, ENOVIA for collaboration and business process management, 3DVIA for consumer experiences) and can be complemented by offerings from our partners.

3DS industries of innovation, everything from Aerospace to Utilities and in between: Aerospace & Defense, Architecture, Engineering & Construction, Consumer Good & Retail, Consumer Packaged Goods & Retail, Energy, Process & Utilities, Financial & Business Services, High-Tech, Industrial Equipment, Life Sciences, Marine & Offshore, Transportation & Mobility, Natural Resources.


I hope to pen a series on Dassault Systems, on the breadth of their inspirations. I’m obsessed, but in a good way.


The Hats off 3D Challenge,

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